Paris closes Spring 2027 shows with debuts and sheer looks

Paris Fashion Week has now drawn to a close, and the Spring/Summer 2027 collections coalesced into a season of craft, lingerie, and fluid silhouettes, with designer turnover talk shadowing some of the biggest houses. New York had already supplied a celebrity-saturated warm-up in September, and Paris delivered the main narrative: Rick Owens pushed his ready-to-wear toward couture, Dries Van Noten's Julian Klausner won early praise, and Saint Laurent showed a golden collection amid succession rumors. ^[1][3][5][4]

In September, New York Fashion Week was a busy mix of shows and parties. PAPER's portrait roundup documented a celebrity-heavy front row: Coach drew Troye Sivan and Elle Fanning, Tory Burch had Amanda Seyfried and Anna Wintour, and Christian Siriano hosted Whoopi Goldberg. Later parties brought Dua Lipa and Lisa to Bulgari's Serpenti Infinito event and Ty Dolla $ign to a PAPER, Lexus and Ambush party. ^[1]

Balmain presented its Spring 2027 ready-to-wear collection at Paris Fashion Week. ^[2]

A review published on October 3 examined Rick Owens' Spring/Summer 2027 womenswear at the Palais de Tokyo, calling it grand, ragged, airy and occasionally terrifying. The review placed Owens in a couture lineage despite his ready-to-wear business, noting that duchesse doublé satin was recycled from industrial webbing and that a series of crystal-crusted boots and lingerie-inspired dresses pushed his aesthetic into new territory. Owens himself described the clothes as "sumptuous, and industrially austere." ^[3]

An Associated Press report described Saint Laurent as dazzling with a river of gold, a black runway and an Eiffel Tower backdrop, while other collections explored texture, ocean conservation and bold underwear-as-outerwear looks. ^[4]

Daily Front Row, in its roundup after the shows, handed out awards. It named Julian Klausner's Dries Van Noten show the best of his career so far and called Michael Rider's Celine the most wanted collection. The outlet also reported industry whispers that Anthony Vaccarello could leave Saint Laurent after his gilded show, with Chemena Kamali rumored to move from Chloé to replace him; the outlet described her Chloé collection as including Laurent-style caftans and a black Le Smoking jumpsuit, and said the show notes read like a goodbye letter. Louis Vuitton's Nicolas Ghesquière was also floated as a possible departure, though Daily Front Row called that collection anticlimactic and wearable. Miu Miu drew attention for what the site called stunt casting, with fifteen celebrities walking, while Apple Martin made her runway debut at Chloé and Ciara walked for Junya Watanabe. ^[5]

VEIN Magazine's overview, based on 25 shows, 10 presentations and 30 showrooms, argued that the season pointed toward lightness, sensuality and craft. Sheer fabrics, fluid silhouettes, lingerie, exposed skin, skirts, intricate knitwear, lace and embroidery recurred, alongside Gothic, romantic, folkloric and archival references. The publication described a return to wearable, adaptable clothes against a backdrop of student protests, strikes, Pride celebrations and Céline Dion concerts in Paris. ^[6]